![]() ![]() My thinking here was that by gradually building up the strength of my fingers in all of these configurations, I would be comfortable pulling on whatever pockets I came across. Here’s what my hangboard sessions looked like:Įssentially, of the seven grips I trained during each set, four of them were different pocket team variations: middle 2, front 2, front 3, and back 3. To get ready for this, I incorporated more pocket team grips into my hangboarding sessions. For me, living in Wyoming and climbing primarily in Lander, this meant no matter what 5.14 route I ended up choosing I would end up needing to pull on small one and two finger pockets. In other words, your training should be tailored to your goals as closely as possible. One of the key principles the Anderson brothers harp on is specificity. I figured that I would train hard through the worst of the summer heat and be at my fittest once the fall temps arrived in September. In an effort to take things more seriously, I decided I was going to do a full cycle of the Anderson brothers Rock Prodigy Training System. While I’ve always felt like I have worked hard to get stronger, I had never really committed to following a structured training program. To help you not make the same mistakes that I did, and maybe help you make your healing process faster, here’s what I learned from my summer of training, injury, and the rehab process back to climbing. That was until I sustained a nasty finger injury that ended my campaign on my project and landed me in a finger splint for three months. ![]() With more psych than time to climb outdoors, I decided it was time to buckle down, do some serious training, and work towards climbing my first 5.14 sport route.Īfter a long summer of training, things were going great and I was getting closer and closer to sending. ![]() I had quit my job, moved into a van, and spent six months traveling around the West climbing as many hard boulders as possible. Enter Matt…Ībout a year and a half ago, I was in the midst of the most productive period of climbing in my life. I hope you enjoy his concise account of his experience and take from this some sage advice about how to care for your fingers. It was a long and arduous road to recovery, and in this post he describes where he went wrong in his training, how he recovered, what he learned from the experience, and whether or not he went back and sent the route that took him out. He’s been providing you with fantastic blog posts and social media posts since mid 2015, and today he’s doing so as a featured author on TrainingBeta.Ī while back, Matt sustained a finger injury pulling on mono pockets at Wild Iris after doing some extensive finger training. It’s Neely this time, and I want to introduce Matt Pincus, our content manager over here at TrainingBeta. ![]()
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